It is very absolutely true in fact that cutting " To cut raw materials or fabric in order to prepare the complete garments" plays pivotal role in apparel manufacturing. Nevertheless It has an array of amenities that i will elaborate in details with the help of this statement. There are catalogue no of process so as to stand up this topic. Prior to cutting of fabric or raw material, We have to follow some process as exemplified Relation, Spreading, pattern check & correction, 100% cut panel check, Numbering & bundling . I have illustrated with the help of this statement emphasize this entire. Cutting is very important process to control the Quality.
Fabric relaxation Procedure
31.0 Purpose: To do
the Fabric relaxation before spreading, in order to have proper measurement
control in the final product.
31.1 Scope : Cutting section of the facility .
31.2 Responsibility: The Cutting Executive of the
respective production unit is responsible to ensure &Implement the procedure. The QA
Executive /Quality in charge of the respective production unit is responsible
to monitor the process.
31.3 Procedure : All
the fabric, depending on the packing method and the structure, need to be
relaxed
before
spreading as per the below criteria :(woven unit & knit unit )
End Date & Time
(Cutting Section)
†dweªK K‡¤úvwRkb /Fabric composition
|
Relaxation hour
|
79% modal 21% polyester.
79% g‡Wj 21% cwj÷vi|
|
24 N›Uv/ 24 hour
|
62% viscose 34% polyester
4%linen.
62% wfm‡KvP 34% cwj÷vi 4% wj‡bb|
|
24 N›Uv/ 24 hour
|
95% polyester 5% spandex.
95% cwj÷vi 5% ¯ú¨vb‡W¯‹|
|
24 N›Uv/ 24 hour
|
63% polyester 34% rayon 3%
spandex
75% cwj÷vi 34% †iqb 3% ¯ú¨vb‡W¯‹‹|
|
24 N›Uv/ 24 hour
|
75% polyester 22% rayon 3%
spandex.
75% cwj÷vi 22% †iqb 3% ¯ú¨vb‡W¯‹‹|
|
24 N›Uv/ 24 hour
|
93% polyester 6% spandex
1% rayon.
93% c‡j÷vi 6% ¯ú¨vb‡W¯‹ 1% †iqb|
|
24 N›Uv/ 24 hour
|
55% linen 45% rayon.
55% wj‡bb 45% †iqb|
|
24 N›Uv/ 24 hour
|
97% cotton 3% spandex.
97% KUb 3% ¯ú¨vb‡W¯‹‹|
|
24 N›Uv/ 24 hour
|
100% polyester .
100%
cwj÷vi |
|
24 N›Uv/ 24 hour
|
55% linen 45% yarn dyed cotton.
55%wj‡bb 45% Bqvb©WvBW KUb |
|
24 N›Uv/ 24 hour
|
82% rayon 18% polyester.
82% †iqb 18% cwj÷vi|
|
24 N›Uv/ 24 hour
|
55% linen 45% cotton .
55% wj‡bb 45% KUb|
|
24 N›Uv/ 24 hour
|
টাইপ অফ ফেব্রিক(Type of Fabric )
|
ফেব্রিক রিলাক্স এর সময়
|
1*1 Rib (ওয়ান বাই ওয়ান রিব)
|
12 ঘন্টা
|
2*2 Rib( টু বাই টু রিব )
|
12 ঘন্টা
|
Single jercy( সিংগেল জারসি)
|
12 ঘন্টা
|
Pique Fabric (পিকে)
|
12 ঘন্টা
|
Lacoste (লাকষ্ট)
|
12 ঘন্টা
|
Opal (অফেল)
|
12 ঘন্টা
|
Terry (টেরি)
|
12 ঘন্টা
|
2*3 Rib (টু বাই থ্রিরি রিব)
|
12 ঘন্টা
|
Lycra single jercy (ল্যাকরা সিংগেল জারসি)
|
24 ঘন্টা
|
Interlock (ইন্টার লক)
|
12 ঘন্টা
|
31.3.1 The fabric should be stored in
the fabric relaxation racks and allowed to be relaxed for
the specified time .
Each fabric roll is tagged with the
relaxation card as below :
FABRIC RELAXATION INFORMATION
Date
Customer
Style No.
P/O No.
Batch No.
Roll No.
Start Date & Time
End Date & Time
Babylon Group
(Cutting Section)
31.4 Reference:
Relaxation report
Section:
32
Spreading Quality control
32.0 Purpose
32.1Scope
32.1 Responsibility
32.2 Procedure
32.3 Reference
32.0 Purpose: To ensure the accuracy
of Spreading Process to prevent / minimize the issues in final product.
32.1Scope: Cutting section of Babylon group
32.1
Responsibility: QA
Executive is responsible for the implementation of the Spreading Quality
Control System.
The Cutting QA is responsible to carry out the
spreading quality control activities.
32.2
Procedure : Before starting the
spreading, check & ensure that the fabric inspection report is passed and
Shade
grouping is done on the batch.
Before starting the spreading, check &
ensure that the fabric inspection report is passed and
shade
grouping
is done on the batch.
ü
Fabric
should be segregated according to dye lot.
ü
For
fabric laying must be follow according
to fabric dye lot
ü
Fabric
laying length should be 20-21 yards except George order.(Woven)
ü
Fabric
laying length should be keep in seven yards (Knit) .
ü
You
Must Know About Fabric Length And Quantity Before Laying Fabric.
ü
Over
lapping is not acceptable for fabric laying.
ü
Tension
of fabric must keep in normal according to fabric nature.
ü
Remnant
must keep in hand and mentioning roll
number after laying fabric
ü
For
check fabric use spaik pairs for every
1 yard.
DISCUSS BELOW TYPE OF FABRIC
LAYING QUANTITY AND HIGHT.(Knit unit )
‡dweªKm
|
†¯úªwWs msL¨v
|
D”PZv
|
(Single Jersey 100% CTN GSM – 160)
|
100 Lay (Open)
|
2.5”
|
(Single Jersey Lycra 95% CTN 5% Lycra GSM – 180)
|
75 Lay (Open)
|
2.5”
|
(1X1 RIB ) 100% CTN GSM – 210 – 220
|
45 Lay (Tube)
|
2.75”
|
(Interlock) 100% CTN GSM 210-220
|
40 Lay (Tube)
|
2.5”
|
(2X2 RIB) 100% CTN GSM – 180
|
70 Lay (Open)
|
2.75”
|
(Double Lacoste) 100% CTN GSM – 220
|
45 Lay (Tube)
|
2.75”
|
(Single Lacoste) 100% CTN GSM – 220
|
40 - 45 Lay (Tube)
|
2.5”
|
(Pique Lacoste) 100% CTN GSM – 220
|
40 - 45 Lay (Tube)
|
2.5” - 2.75”
|
(Single Jersey) 100% Viscose GSM – 160
|
90 Lay (Open)
|
2.5”
|
(Single Jersey) Y/D Stripe) 100% CTN GSM – 180
|
60 Lay (Open)
|
2.25”
|
(1X1 RIB Y/D Stripe) 100% CTN GSM - 200
|
50 Lay (Open)
|
2.25”
|
For Woven unit wb‡b¥ wewfbœ ai‡bi
†dweª‡Ki wbavwiZ D”PZv I †j Kivi cwigvb
†`qv n‡jv t
‡dweªKm
|
‡¯cÖwWs msL¨v
|
D”PZv
|
(Linen ) wj‡jb
|
200 †j (lay)
|
2. .½ ″
|
(T,C) wU,wm
|
300 †j (lay)
|
3.0″
|
(CVC) wm,wf,wm
|
300 †j (lay)
|
2.0″
|
(COTTON
SPANDEX)
কটন †¯úb‡W· (Solid) (mwjW)
|
200 †j (lay)
|
2.½ ″
|
(STRIPE) ֻvBc
|
200 †j (lay)
|
2.½ ″
|
(OXFORD SOLID) I·‡dvW© mwjW
|
250 †j (lay)
|
3″
|
(OXFORD STRIPE) I·‡dvW© ÷ªvBc
|
250 †j (lay)
|
3″
|
(TWILL
COTTON SOLID HARD) UzBj KUb mwjW nvW©
|
180 †j (lay)
|
2.½ ″
|
(TWILL
COTTON SOLID SOFT) UzBj KUb mwjW md&U
|
250 †j (lay)
|
2.½ ″
|
(CORDUROY) KW©iq
|
150 †j (lay)
|
2.½ ″
|
(DENIM HARD) ‡Wwbg nvW©
|
150 †j (lay)
|
3″
|
(DENIM SOFT) ‡Wwbg md&U
|
150 †j (lay)
|
3″
|
(POLYNESIA) cwjbwmk
|
150 †j (lay)
|
2.½ ″
|
(SEERSUCKER SOLID) wmimvKv mwjW
|
120 †j (lay)
|
2.½ ″
|
(SEERSUCKER
STRIPE) wmimvKv ֻvBc
|
90 †j (lay)
|
2.½ ″
|
100% COTTON
CHECK (100%
KUb †PK )
|
200 ‡j (lay)
|
2.½ ″
|
Reference: Spreading
Quality control report
Section: 33
Standard operating procedure of
Numbering
33.1 Objectives
33.2 Scope
33.2 Responsibility
33.2 Procedure
33.3 Reference
33.1 Purpose : Produce a
good quality garment avoiding shading within the garment, pack garments having
one shade in one carton and have the traceability in case of any issue.
33.2Scope: Cutting section of the facility.
33.3 responsibility:
QA Executive is responsible for the implementation of the Numbering System.
33.4: procedure: 1. To place numbers in upper, lower, back part, put the side SIM
Extra place in the top side of the sticker. If the sticker is not fitted, then the sticker
should be placed in the side.
(Before sticking the sticker, sticker's gum or glue should be sure about whether or not the
stains come in the right way.)
2. If you do not have space on the side of the number in Sleeve, then stick the sticker
the inside.
3. Before cutting the yoke band knife machine, put the sticker in the extra place.
If there is no extra space then sticker inside it.
4. Numbering must be done before cutting the sleeve placket band knife.
5. If the upper part is fusing, then the top side numbering should be placed in the extra space
on the side. If there is no space in the side SIM, sticker should be inserted in the panel inside
In case of any number of stickers, pencils, balloons, chalk etc.,
before the use of the numerical elements, the system will take the test and the test will be done
with the help of Q and C in-charge.
33.5 Reference:
Section:
33
Standard operating procedure
of Bundling
33.1 Purpose
33.2 Scope
33.2 Responsibility
33.2 Procedure
33.3 Reference
Standard operating procedure
of Bundling
33.1 Purpose :
33.2 Scope: Cutting
section of the facility.
33.2
Responsibility: QA Executive is responsible for the implementation of the
Numbering System.
33.2 Requirements: After cutting the fabric, the cutting component must be bundled separately. So before bundle it should be controlled by a bundle card. A bundle without bundle card is worthless. At the bottom, a detailed description of a bundle card is described.1. Order number2. Cutting number3. Color 4. Dialot number5. Bundle number6. Size7. Quantity 8. Bundle Purchase Number9. Serial number10. Product Discretions.
Procedure: The number of components of the bundle must be standard 30 pitch.• Bundle card lights have to be color.• Must have to match bundle component serial card.• Bundle card rope and component or cutting parts color must be the same.
Section:
34
Standard operating procedure
of 100% cut panel
34.1 Purpose
34.2 Scope
34.2 Responsibility
34.2 Procedure
34.3 Reference
Standard
operating procedure of 100% cut
34.1 Purpose : Produce a good quality garment
avoiding defects within the garment.
34.2 Scope : Cutting section of the facility.
34.2 Responsibility: QA Executive is
responsible for the implementation of the 100% cut panel checking system. The Cutting QA is responsible to carry out the
100% cut panel checking activities.
34.2 Procedure : Before checking the panel, there should be specific ideas about the
order and style.
• Have detailed knowledge about the defects of fabric inspection.
• According to the size written on the cutting parts, the size and the shape is correct to
match with the hard pattern.
• Remove panels from the top, middle, bottom and see if the size is correct according
to the shape and pattern.
• According to marker paper style wise check the niches mark, the drill mark, it has to
be corrected in the cut-panel.
• Pocket Positions, Dart Positions should be examined in correctness.
• Check sleeve pocket opening by doing measurement
• If there is a check match and cutting line in case of a steam or check fabric, then it
will be ensured.
• Check upper, lower & front with back side seam.
• Whether the two front shoulder are equal in size to see if they are equal.
• Yak's top-of-the-mill pair should be measured with the band knife hard pattern,
whether they are equal or not.
• Every deficient parts should be separated and written in the register.
Conclusion: To sum up, I would prefer in order to depict
that without any hesitation I am in favor of this topic. I ponder that I have
illustrated with the help of this statement emphasize this entire.

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