Thursday, August 16, 2018

Basic testing of fabric prior to cutting



 Basic testing of fabric prior to cutting


Fabric is received according to per-forma invoice & perform inventory. After proper inventory, we are performing minimum testing standard “Test is method of verifying” which plays important role in apparel manufacturing. To produce quality-full product we are determined to test the basic requirement of the fabric in our in house mini lab to secure the product safety & quality. In this regards, we are testing of fabric e.g Wash test, rubbing test, shrinkage, Shade blanket. Moreover, we are testing mun- sell to control the shade of all employee. With the help of this statement, I have elaborated the topics in details. 




                               In-House Wash Test
15.0 Purpose & Scope
To identify impact & effect of home laundry wash as per care instruction on general
Appearance, dimensional stability, embroidery, printing, fusing, heat transfer etc.
15.1 Responsibilities
15.1 Quality In-charge is responsible to monitor and to implement the wash test process.
15.2 QA is assigned to carry out the washing, checking and giving feedback to the
Respective production unit and management, and maintain the reports.
15.3 Sampling:
15.3.0 The wash test is conducted as per below sampling plan for all the garments
First of the line 1- 100-unit 1 wash test
101 – 3000 units 1 wash test
3001 – 6000 units 1 wash test
6001 – 9000 units 1 wash test
9001 – 12000 units 1 wash test
12001- 15000 units 1 wash test
   For print & embroidery, one panel per day is tested
15.3 Procedures
15.3.0 The assigned IQC QA selects the rejected garment from the respective floor on
Random basis. (In case of printing / embroidery, a rejected panel is taken)
15.3.1 QA checks following things before wash and note down the observations in the wash
Test report form.
General appearance, Key point measurement, Embroidery / Printing quality, Heat seal quality, GSM
15.3.2 QA marks 25cm x 25cm area for shrinkage calculation purpose
15.3.3 Then the sample is washed & dried using appropriate home washing machine as per
The care label instruction
15.3.4 The effect on appearance, embroidery, printing, heat seal, measurement and gsm
After wash is checked and recorded.
15.3.5 Length & width wise shrinkage is calculated and recorded.
5.0 Related Documents: 
5.1 In house Garment Wash Test Report                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     
            
Section: 16
                             Shrinkage procedure
16.0 Purpose
16.1 Scope
16.2 Responsibility 
16.3 Procedure  
16.4 Reference



















                              Shrinkage procedure

16.0 Purpose: The two yarn combines two yarn in the form of fabric, or fabric, and when  the 
yarn is attached then gap between two yarn & also some dust  . After the washing,
 the two yarn's midterm and distorted YARNs disappeared. Because of this, 
after the garment disposal, the Measurement can be more or less, so that it does not have to
 be such a problem, it is necessary to check the pre-prepared supplemental fabric SHRINKAGE.

16.1 Scope : This process is applicable for woven unit .

16.2 Responsibility:
16.2.0 Quality In-charge is responsible to monitor and to implement the Shrinkage test process.
16.2.1 QA is assigned to carry out the shrinkage, checking and giving feedback to the
Respective production unit and management, and maintain the reports.


16.3 Procedure:  
 
Sampling method
Each fabric must have the shrinkage test with one of the rules in each color in the receipt lot. 
At least 10% of received quantity of roll should test shrinkage. 

In the case of wash Garment (50cm x 50cm) measurements should be marked with 
specific measurable templates. Then, according to wash recipe, it will be washed after that 
amount of shrinkage should be calculated according to percentage.
   
In the case of non-wash garments (50cm x 50cm) measurement should be marked with 
specific measurable templates. After two minutes of steam with normal condition, 
check the Measurement and find out the amount of shrinkage according to the percentage.
 Style name, Buyer name, Order & color should be mentioned at the Fabric.
 On the basis of shrinkage pattern should be adjusted.
 
 
 
 
 
16.4 Reference:









Section: 17
                  Color fastness to rubbing 
17.0 Purpose
17.1 Scope
17.2 Responsibility 
17.3 Procedure  
17.4 Reference























                     Color fastness to rubbing 

17.0 Purpose: To ensure depth of color, construction of fabric & end use of product
17.1 Scope: This process is applicable for woven unit.
17.2 Responsibility:
17.2.0 Quality In-charge is responsible to monitor and to implement the Shrinkage test process.
17.2.1 QA is assigned to carry out the shrinkage, checking and giving feedback to the
Respective production unit and management, and maintain the reports.

17.3 Procedure  : CROCKING TEST

This test verifies the color bleeding property of garment. The instrument called CROCK METER. This process done in two types: (1) DRY CROCKING (2) WET CROCKING. Acceptable standard varies from buyer to buyer but best standard is

DRY               4
                                                WET                3

Procedure

For dry process, place the swatch of testing material under plate of crock meter.  With crock meter cloth, 10 cycle of rubbing will be done on testing material. Shade effect will come on crock meter cloth, then measure it with gray scale and allocate the rating. In wet process, everything remains same except that crock meter cloth is wet with one drop of distil water. 



17.4 Reference :












Section: 18
                Shade blanket procedure  
18.0 Purpose
18.1 Scope
18.2 Responsibility 
18.3 Procedure  
18.4 Reference
























                    Shade blanket procedure
  
18.0 Purpose : To identify and determine the extent of fabric defects, the different width and other quality level of fabric lot received so as to ensure the fabrics confirms to the required standard before spreading.
18.1 Scope: This process is applicable for woven unit.
18.2 Responsibility: The QC In-charge is responsible for the monitoring and the implementation of the shade blanket procedure and to verify the authenticity of the shade blanket report.
The Fabric Inspectors (QA) are assigned to carry out the shade blanket procedure and to maintain the shade blanket records.
18.3 Procedure   :

Ø  Blanket s/b 100% from received roll & blanket quantity should be 3 set.
Ø   Length and width should be 20 cm and fabric should be one way.
Ø  Blanket sewing point should be even and one way.
Ø  If have wash so should be wash.one set non wash, two set wash
Ø   Blanket shade should be check with approval lab dip, counter sample wash standard and it s/b check in the d65, tl83, a light by minimum 2 person.
Ø  Shade band summery with report
Ø  Color continuity control record
Ø  Shade should be separate country wise.
Ø  Country plan send to cutting , sewing & packing
Ø  Packing s/b one country one shade.
Ø  Color continuity records s/b keep for 6 month.
Ø  If not match the shade blanket shade with counter sample, lab dip, & wash slandered then need to check with H&M for advice.



18.4 Reference









 Section: 19
           Color Vision Test / Munsell Test SOP
                                           19.0 Purpose & scope 
19.1 Responsibility 
19.2 Procedure  
19.3 Test analysis
                                                         
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  
                  


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        
                   Color Vision Test / Mansell Test SOP

19.0 Purpose & Scope
The Farnsworth-Mansell Hue Test offers a simple method for testing color discrimination. It yields data, which can be applied to many psychological, and shop floor problems in color vision. Its primary uses are to:

19.0.1 Separate persons with normal color vision into classes of superior, average and low color discrimination.

19.0.2 To measure the zones of color confusion of persons dealing in color shades.

19.1 Responsibilities

19.1.0 QA In-charge is responsible to monitor and to ensure that all the persons dealing with color shades are tested for color vision

19.1.1 IQC in-charge is responsible for conducting the test, communicating the results and maintains the records. 
               Organogram

    Quality Compliance Officer


 
             
                Quality Manager


 


                Quality Supervisor



19.2 Procedures

19.2.0 Material:
19.2.0.1 The FM Hue Test includes a total of 93 colors mounted in plastic caps, housed in four separate cases. Each case consists of two hinged panels which contain a quarter of the 85 numbered, removable color caps. (Two caps are repeated and fixed as pilot colors at either end of one panel in
Each case, making a total of ninety-three caps.)

19.2.0.2 If the caps become severely smudged or damaged, they should be replaced.

19.2.0.3 With normal usage, it is recommended that the caps be replaced every four years.

19.2.1 Lighting:

19.2.1 .0Test should be carried out under Day Light D65 in the light box.

19.2.1.1 Since natural daylight is variable, the results cannot be expected to be as stable as when the test is given under standard illumination.

19.2.1.2 Ordinary incandescent room lights should be switched off or shielded from the test area.




19.3 Testing :

19.3.1 Open one case and arrange the caps in random order

19.3.2 Instruct the person being tested as below :


19.3.2.3 to arrange the caps in order according to color and place them so they form a regular color series between the two end caps (indicate)

19.3.2.4 It should take you about two minutes per panel. However, accuracy is more important than speed so you will be told when the two minutes are up but the panel will not be taken away from him/her.

19.3.2.4 To Allow the person as long as necessary to arrange the caps in an order with which they are satisfied.

19.3.2.5 If two minutes have passed, and the person is not through, quietly remind them that two minutes are up, and allow more time to finish the task.

19.3.2.6 Repeat the process for rest 3 cases.

19.3.2.7 Record the time taken to complete the test.

19.3.2.8 Enter the findings into FM Hue Test Scoring Software.

Testing receiver:
19.3.4 Only Quality people will receive this test for all the department like Store, Sample, sewing, cutting, Finishing & packing etc. .

19.4 Result Analysis

19.4.0 Person with 'normal' color vision can be classified as follows:

19.4.1 Superior Discrimination

19.4.2 About 16% of the population (exclusive of color defectives) has been found to make 0 to 4 transpositions on first test, or
total error score of zero to 16. This is the range of superior competence for color discrimination.

19.4.3 Average Discrimination
About 68% of the population (exclusive of color defectives) make a total error score between 20 and 100 on first tests. This is the range of normal competence for color
Discrimination.





19.4.4 Low Discrimination

19.4.4.0About 16% of the population (exclusive of color defectives has been found to make total error scores of more than 100. The first retest may show improvement, but further retests do not materially affect the score. Repeated retests reveal no region of large maximum or minimum sensitivity as is found in color defective patterns.







19.4.4.1 Total error scores represent the color discrimination ability of an individual at a given point in time.

19.4.4.2 It is possible that color discrimination ability for that individual may improve at a later time as a result of further training and experience.




19.4.5 Identifying the color defectiveness:

19.4.5.0 The pattern of color defectiveness is identified using the FM Hue Test by bi-polarity, a clustering of maximum errors in two regions which are nearly opposite.

19.4.5.1The severity of the defect can be gauged by the extent of the 'bulge', a severe degree of defect showing clear bipolarity with high error scores; moderate cases show small 'bulges' and lower total error scores; mild cases with good color discrimination may show no 'bulge'

19.4.5.2 The position of the mid-point of the errors in the pattern will identify the type of color defectiveness as below :

Protans : have a mid-point between 62 and 70

Deutans : have a mid-point between 56 and 61

Tritans : have a mid-point between 46 and 52.

19.4.5.3 To handle the shades, the person has to score minimum Average
Discrimination.

19.4.5.4 If someone scores, poor discrimination, the test may be re-conducted after six months with proper training.

19.4.5.5 When new QA/QC will be selected at first he/ she will do The munsell test , Any color blind person not allow to work  .
 19.4.5.6 Every QA /QC will get Munsell test randomly after one year.


      Section: 20 

     Minimum Lighting Requirements
                                                20.0 Purpose
                                                20.1 scope 
20.2 Responsibility 
20.3 Procedure  
20.4 Reference                  

                   

      Minimum Lighting Requirements

20.0 Purpose: To ensure the minimum lighting requirement is maintained at the working area.
20.1 scope: To all section of the facility.
 20.2 Responsibility: The Maintenance In-charge is responsible for the monitoring and the Implementation of the minimum lighting requirements and to verify the same at regular intervals.
 20.3 Procedure   :
 Lighting requirements depends mainly on three factors:
20.3.1 The work that will be performed e.g. inspection, sewing, warehouse.
20.3.2 Working area environment e.g. natural light, color of background, ceiling and walls.
20.3.3 The sharpness of the worker’s eyesight.
  20.3 .2To provide correct lighting Maintenance In-charge must try to:
20.3.2.0 Make full use of daylight.
3.2.1Provide suitable light for the work performed.
3.2.2 Use the right lighting device and fixture.
3.2.3 Find the correct placement of the light source, appropriate light height and direction suitable for the task performed.
20.3.3 Avoid shadows and glare.
3.3.1 Ensure regular maintenance e.g. cleaning of lamps, lamp
Replacement schedule.
3.3 .2The work area light must be measured using a light meter.
3.3.3 Recommended light values to be ensured as below:

Department
Minimum Lux
Remark
All inspections area (Fabric/Accessory Checking Inspection/Quality Control)
1000 Lux

Warehouse for: Fabric/Accessory/Finished
product
250 Lux

Cutting
750 Lux

Sewing  (needle point )
1000 Lux


                                                                                                                                           




Basic function of the light





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1.      TL-83,
2.      D-65,
3.      A-Light,
4.      UV-Light
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v UV-Light  A_©vr  (Ultra Violent) Kvc‡o †h mKj mgm¨v Lvwj †Pv‡L †`Lv hvqbv UV-Light Øviv †PK Ki‡j Zvnv mn‡RB ‡`Lv hvq| ïaygvÎ White Color Kvc‡oi Shade wbY©‡qi ক্ষেত্রে UV-Light e¨envi Kiv nq|
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Conclusion: To sum up, I would prefer in order to depict that without any hesitation I am in favor of this topic. I ponder that I have illustrated with the help of this statement emphasize this entire.




Nazmul Huda-B Sc in textile,MS in environmental science-JU